Embarking on a pilgrimage is a serious undertaking. Pilgrims respond to a heavenly call to take leave of their ordinary lives, to travel to a holy destination for a deep spiritual purpose, trusting in God and anticipating that they will, in some way, become transformed by the experience. With faith, hope and resolve, in May a group of 16 Toronto-area Anglicans led by the Rev. Canon Susan Haig travelled to the United Kingdom to walk the pilgrimage route known as St. Cuthbert’s Way. It was a remarkable journey.
Who was St. Cuthbert? Cuthbert was a native of the Scottish border country and a 7th-century monk whose ministry garnered him the love and respect of those he served. Cuthbert travelled widely, spreading the word of God, and ultimately served as Bishop of the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, which is located off the English coast of Northumberland. He died in 687 AD and was buried on the Holy Island. Approximately 200 years later, his remains were removed from the Island when the community was threatened by Viking raids. They are now entombed in Durham Cathedral in northern England.
Pilgrims who wish to follow in St. Cuthbert’s footsteps walk a 100 km path from Melrose Abbey in Scotland to the Holy Island in England. Both the journey and the destination are central to the experience. The waymarked route over established rights of way traverses a wide variety of landscapes, including river valleys, fields of wildflowers, green grasses, golden gorse and canola, sheltering woods, and barren, wind-swept moorland. At times the Way travels along the remains of two Roman roads and follows the meandering River Tweed.
Preparing to walk
Our story of pilgrimage began with a commitment to walk, which encompassed physical, spiritual and relational preparation. Success in this endeavor required us to engage in a considerable amount of walking over many months to develop the needed strength and stamina to make the journey. A group meeting at the outset, and later a full-day retreat, laid the foundation for our community to form and flourish as we reflected deeply on the meaning of pilgrimage. Planning included developing pilgrim protocols to guide us on our walk. Clear expectations, which included shared responsibilities for tasks and a resolution to leave no one behind on the path, enabled us to focus unencumbered on the walk before us.
In advance of our pilgrimage, we flew to Edinburgh and spent the next day acclimatizing to the time change. We then made our way by bus to Melrose at the western end of the Way, where our six-day pilgrimage commenced. Our days followed a familiar rhythm. Each morning, we gathered for updates and listened to a reflection offered by one of the pilgrims before setting out. The first hour we walked in silence. Together we crossed terrain that at times was very challenging. St. Cuthbert’s Way took us through diverse landscapes – rolling hills, narrow, tortuous and sometimes rocky paths, as well as steep ascents and descents. We crossed streams, climbed over stiles, gave wide berth to cows tending their calves, and met fellow travelers. The path could be flat, but it was often hilly, and the distances were long. We walked roughly 15 to 20 km each day. Along the way we visited the ruins of both Melrose and Dryburgh abbeys and participated in three Eucharists led by clergy who were part of our community. After each full day of walking, we arrived at our lodging, grateful for some rest and a shower, before gathering for dinner and then an early night.
Pilgrimages are walked at an intentionally slower pace and, as such, keep you grounded. We put one foot in front of the other and were fully present. Free of everyday demands and distractions, the chatter of the mind settles. And then each of us, upon pausing to take in the surrounding beauty, found ourselves surprised by joy. We encountered the beauty of God’s nature throughout our pilgrimage. In addition to the stunning landscapes and flora, we interacted with hares, many birds, horses, cattle (both intimidating and benign), and innumerable sheep.
Unforeseen circumstances
Like all pilgrims, we sometimes faced unforeseen circumstances, such as changes to the itinerary or personal challenges. Pilgrimages can be hard on one’s body, especially one’s feet. However, imagination and flexibility enabled us to address issues with good humour and faith in ourselves to move through difficulty.
One of the many delights of engaging in a pilgrimage is an opportunity to interact with citizens of other countries, mostly those who live and work on the pilgrimage route, but also those who come from around the globe to walk. On St. Cuthbert’s Way, local residents and other travellers welcomed us with open arms. A sense of hospitality was present throughout.
On Good Shepherd Sunday, a group of pilgrims had the unexpected pleasure of being invited into the Bowden Kirk (lured by shortbreads, milk and a clean bathroom), where they spent time chatting with their host and playing with his dog. A few days later, one member of our group developed a serious case of pneumonia. He spent the better part of two days at a hospital in Scotland, where he experienced amazing medical care. His spouse also experienced the support of local residents, one of whom went out of his way to ensure that she safely made it back to her hotel from the hospital in the middle of the night. At our last stop on the Holy Island, a hotel booking mishap led to the possibility that two of our pilgrims might not have a room in which to sleep. One of the front desk staff told us not to worry, because the two would be welcome to stay at her home if no room could be found at the hotel. Ultimately, a room was located.
We encountered other delightful surprises along the way. Meeting the same pilgrims from day to day forged connections with others we were unlikely to see again. On one occasion, a few of us met three walkers who told us that a wayward sheep had crossed a fence and needed help to get back. Working together, we managed to coax the reluctant sheep through an opening to return to her bleating lambs. Such experiences highlighted the overwhelming sense of community that develops on the journey.
After five days of walking, the Holy Island was finally in sight. The approach to Lindisfarne requires pilgrims to negotiate either a paved causeway or a 2-kilometre-long pilgrim’s path over the seabed, both of which are passable only at low tide. Most pilgrims choose to walk across the sands at low tide to reach this famous Christian site – an island of about 130 people that swells with visitors when it’s accessible. Our time on the Holy Island was an opportunity to both reflect and explore. We attended a Sunday service at St. Mary the Virgin Church, which is over 800 years old and is built over the remains of an earlier Saxon church. We were warmly welcomed by the vicar, who, with a number of local residents, hosted us one evening at her vicarage.
Out of our comfort zone
Reasons for undertaking a pilgrimage are individual and personal. Some pilgrims hope to develop new spiritual insights. Others are simply open to whatever transpires. Regardless, pilgrimages can transform. They can take us out of our comfort zone to a liminal space, that thin place where the distance between our earthly domain and the next realm diminishes. Such experiences open a door to new insights and can leave us changed.
Pilgrims can also be changed by their experience within the group. Walking is a solitary endeavour, but it is best supported within a broader community. As such, the individual pilgrim is never alone. Bonds are strengthened through the companionship of walking, shared meals, song and musical accompaniment, and the power of the Eucharist. It is within community that experiences of silence and laughter, frustration and delight, exhaustion and rest, and uncertainty and faith, shape the journey of the pilgrim.
Arriving at Holy Island was a time for rejoicing. The hard work had been done. Or had it? Each of us is called to make a journey that will lead us home and be changed in how we look at life. Walking St. Cuthbert’s Way sparked a profound sense of awe and gratitude in God’s creation. That journey continues long after our walk ends, marking the beginning of something new.
We shall not cease from exploration
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.
– T.S. Eliot from “Little Gidding,” Four Quartets
Sturdy footwear and a change of socks a must
If you’re thinking of going on a pilgrimage using St. Cuthbert’s Way, here are some things to think about.
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Preparation and time are key to a successful pilgrimage. St. Cuthbert’s Way is classified by the British as being of “moderate” difficulty. It’s not! You need to train for distance and elevation by daily walks leading to some 15-20 km walks in the months before you go.
- Walking poles are very helpful (I might say essential) on many parts of the route.
- Building community beforehand is very important. Retreats and times of prayer and fellowship makes for a meaningful group experience prior to leaving.
- Engage the congregation in pilgrimage exercises before you go, so they can support you in prayer and you can carry their prayers while walking.
- If you’re thinking of going as a group, use a travel company that specializes in UK and Scotland travel. Much of the accommodation is in small pub hotels that have a limited number of rooms. If you’re thinking of going as a couple (or two), you should have no difficulty planning a year in advance for a pilgrimage. A larger group should probably plan two years in advance. The UK now requires an Electronic Travel Authorization, which you need to do online before you leave.
- Give yourself a day or two before you start in Melrose to get over jet lag. Give yourself some days after the pilgrimage to process the experience.
- There is no way to predict the weather in Scotland, but May and September are probably the best months to travel. The route can be very narrow (single file only). The steep bits are very rocky and will be muddy and slippery if it’s raining.
- You will be travelling through farmers’ fields and fairly dense gorse. Mosquito and tick protection is essential.
- Running shoes won’t do. Sturdy footwear and a change of socks will protect your feet.
- Be mindful of the tides at Holy Island. Whether you use the vehicle causeway or the original pilgrim route across the mud flats, it must be done at low tide.
- Give yourself at least two days on Holy Island. There is a lot to see and learn, and the worship experience at St. Mary the Virgin Church is a wonderful conclusion to your pilgrimage.
By Peter Bennett, a member of Redeemer, Bloor St.
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