Faith thrives despite hardship

On day seven of our pilgrimage – Sunday – our trustworthy driver Zuzu picked us up after breakfast to drive us to Ramallah, where we would visit St. Andrew’s parish and join the community’s patronal festivities. We would also meet with Archbishop Hosam Naoum, primate of the Province of Jerusalem and the Middle East – a vast territory that includes Egypt, Ethiopia, Iran, Iraq, Jordan, Lebanon and Syria.

Depending on traffic, Ramallah is at least a half-hour drive north of Jerusalem. The two cities, separated by checkpoints and the notorious Wall, stand in stark contrast to one another. In Jerusalem, Haredi Jews stroll the sidewalks. Billboards and shop signs are in Hebrew. Many roads, while exceptionally congested, are wide enough to accommodate multiple lanes. In Ramallah, however, Arabic is ubiquitous. Jews are rarely, if ever, seen. The terrain is hilly, streets are narrower, and motorists make liberal use of their horns. Many women wear a hijab. Hagop Djernazian, a Sabeel staff member who accompanied us for the day, remarked that Ramallah is culturally and topographically a smaller version of Amman, Jordan.

We arrived at St. Andrew’s Church, located at the end of a short easy-to-miss alley. The parish is led by Father Fadi Diab, a courageous priest who played a major role in the writing of the 2009 Kairos Palestine Document – an impassioned ecumenical call for an end to Israel’s illegal occupation. In August 2022, Israeli forces raided St. Andrew’s and the adjacent Al Haq human rights organization. Father Fadi’s strong pastoral presence helped the congregation remain resolute in the aftermath of this attack.

Once inside the church, we made our way into the nave, a modest space framed by stone walls, with the chancel archway stunningly decorated to simulate a cave entrance. Beside the chancel steps, a small organ was played by a man with an infectious smile who welcomed us warmly. Families trickled in, filling the pews from front to back in anticipation of Archbishop Hosam’s arrival. At the beginning of the service, Father Fadi invited Bishop Andrew to light the second candle of the Advent wreath – an experience that would, as he shared later in the evening, almost bring him to tears. The service proceeded in Arabic, in a simple but reverent manner, with familiar rhythms and hymn tunes that allowed us to follow along easily.

Archbishop Hosam, whose formidable stature belies his gentle and gracious disposition, rose to deliver his homily. Speaking in Arabic for several minutes, he concluded with a word in English. Focusing his attention on the gospel, he drew a strong connection between John the Baptist’s prophetic witness and the Advent theme of peace. We must, he insisted, embrace John’s prophetic call and be agents and ambassadors of peace. That is how we will “prepare the way of the Lord” and “make his paths straight.”

The climax of the service was the Eucharist, with everyone – including a toddler who had been running up and down the centre aisle – eagerly lining up to receive the sacrament. The consecrated bread was not the dry, tasteless little discs that are so common in our diocese. Instead, the archbishop broke off generous pieces of a freshly baked loaf, dipping them himself in the chalice and then offering them to all communicants. During this time, communion hymns were sung joyfully and resoundingly. Despite living under oppressive occupation, these Christians showed an unmistakable depth of faith and perseverance.

After the service, some of us were privileged to meet parishioners Sami and Lulu Nasir. Their daughter Layan, age 25, has been in and out of “administrative detention” since 2021 and currently languishes (along with thousands of other Palestinians) in an Israeli prison, for no justifiable reason. Her case has received international attention, prompting several archbishops to demand her immediate release. Layan’s parents are prevented from making any contact with her. As Lulu tearfully shared with us the impact of this ordeal, I was unable to contain my own emotions. It was a profoundly unsettling moment for me that powerfully evoked the oft-recited intercession “for prisoners and captives, and for their safety, health, and salvation.”

The heaviness of that moment temporarily gave way to a wonderfully catered dinner in the parish hall. We were then ushered into a side room for a meeting with Archbishop Hosam. He shared with us some of his own work and the grim challenges facing Anglicans in Palestine, especially in the wake of Oct. 7. At the conclusion of the meeting, we laid hands on the archbishop as Bishop Andrew offered a prayer and blessing. Archbishop Hosam responded by praying for us and blessing our work.

Before departing for Jerusalem, we joined Archbishop Hosam for the blessing and dedication of a newly renovated facility that will provide affordable housing for women moving to Ramallah for employment opportunities. As we toured the building, I lingered in the small chapel. Through the window directly behind the altar, large water storage tanks were clearly visible – an arresting reminder of the water shortages that Palestinians endure. Israel controls 85% of the water in the Holy Land, selling the remaining 15% to Palestinians.

The drive back to Jerusalem was much longer because of an interminable check-point line – again, another reality that suffocates Palestinian movement. It gave me much time to ponder the day, both the dismal and the joyful elements. Above all, I was astonished by the tenacity of faith and undeterred confidence that we witnessed among these Christians of Ramallah.