Hope shines in the darkness

What’s happening in Israel/Palestine? Admittedly, if I was asked this question before our pilgrimage to the Holy Land, my answer would have probably been vague or ill-informed. Not because of my lack of knowledge of events surrounding the conflict between Israel and Palestine, but simply because as humans we often focus on the things that affect us directly.

On Dec. 6, we visited an area called Taybeh. To lend some historical context: Taybeh is one of the most ancient places in Palestine, dating back to the Bronze Age, and is mentioned in the Book of Joshua as Ofra, a town of Benjamin. In New Testament times it was known as Ephraim, the village to which Jesus chose to retire with his disciples after the resurrection of Lazarus to fortify his spirit, pray and fast before his return to Jerusalem and his Passion. Notably, Taybeh is surrounded by Muslim villages, Israeli settlements and military roadblocks, yet it has an all-Christian population, the only 100% Christian village in Palestine. The people of Taybeh belong to three Christian denominations: the Latin (Roman Catholic) Church, the Greek Orthodox Church and the Melkite (Greek Catholic) Church.

Remarkably, within the grounds of the Latin Church of Christ the Redeemer, there is a reconstruction of a traditional Palestinian peasant home, which we were privileged to tour. Taybeh is an area that once had a population of 15,000. Presently, both because of the ongoing conflict between Israel and Palestine and the occupation, which means Taybeh is living under military law, many persons have migrated to Canada, Germany or the U.S. This, of course, was evident in the empty streets and many deserted buildings that comprised the town. However, Taybeh is also famous for having its own brewery and Oktoberfest celebration. The brewery, launched in 1994, is one of two in Palestine, and as of 2014 also produces its own wine.

We were privileged to have an audience with Fr. Bashar Fawadleh, the parish priest of the Latin Church of Christ the Redeemer, who explained the difficulties that so many families face within the community. He described the tension and fear that the community was feeling, and the ongoing harassment that the people endure from Israeli soldiers and settlers alike. In fact, on the day he spoke with us, he made us aware of an attack on the community the night before. After a Christmas celebration gathering, two vehicles in the town were set on fire by Israeli settlers. Thankfully, nobody was injured.

Regardless of the struggles, Fr. Fawadleh expressed how hopeful the people of Taybeh are to celebrate Christmas, especially considering what has transpired within the country in the last two years with the war in Gaza. I can recall sinking in my chair as he spoke and explained to us in detail the challenges within the community and church at large. However, when asked by Bishop Asbil, “What keeps you going? What gives you hope?” he responded without any hesitation, saying, “Your presence. With you all visiting, it makes us feel as though we are not alone.” This response, which will stay with me for a long time, was transformative and encouraging, for it truly defined what we recite in the creed: “We believe in one holy catholic and apostolic church.” Yes, we are universal, we are one, and we walk hand-in-hand with one another regardless of the distance.

Moments later we were back on the bus to go on our way to Bethlehem, where our Christian faith first started. I can still recall the bus ride. It was quiet and reflective. I could hear people think and ponder as we all sat with what was told to us by Fr. Fawadleh and others thus far on our trip.

About 30 minutes later, the bus stopped and there we all stood in the front of the Church of the Nativity. “Wow!” I thought, “in the midst of all that is happening, we are standing only steps away from the church that is believed to be built over the birthplace of Jesus.” And then it happened, the countdown to the lighting of the Christmas tree. People cheering, some crying, emotions running wild. Then we heard “10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1,” and the tree was lit. With goosebumps, and tears in my eyes, I watched people celebrate with hope and expectation. As a result of the war in Gaza, this was the first time in two years that the tree was lit in the square. For the first time in my life, Romans 5:3 – “but we rejoice in our sufferings” – became so alive and real. In that moment, I stood among a people who, though oppressed, walled in and marginalized, exemplified Romans 5:3.

Like the Apostle Paul, although there’s much pain and persecution among Palestinians, they also show much joy. In the midst of everything, they continue to show that hope and confidence in God dominates their outlook on life. Yet we may ask, what enables Palestinians to live with such paradoxes? It is their faith in a God of boundless love who holds the future in his hands. It is a faith that is unshakeable even in the midst of distress. It is a faith that gives a new outlook on life. It is a faith that says suffering and blessing are not necessarily contradictory. It is possible to have and experience both.

Now fast-forward to Dec. 19. Having visited Israel/Palestine, my experience and knowledge have been informed through the lens of those living within the walls of conflict. And so I write with the hope and expectation that my experience would enlighten, inform and bring about the change that is desperately needed in Israel/Palestine, as well as in other parts of the world. Nelson Mandela once stated that “education is the most powerful weapon which you can use to change the world.” This trip provided us all with that world-changing education.